Milan Fashion Week (Sunday): Prada Takes Inspiration From Graphic Novels For Show
MILAN — A fresh breeze buffeted Italy’s style capital through the second day of Milan Trend Week on Sunday, both literally, bringing relief from the June heat, and figuratively, as young designers took the highlight.
They brought with them contemporary silhouettes with new proportions and reinterpretations of previous summertime favorites from linens to stripes.
Listed here are highlights from menswear previews Sunday in Milan for subsequent spring and summer season:
Miuccia Prada took inspiration from graphic novels for her newest collection, which goals to create a dialogue between the virtual world and the real world.
The virtual world is in an exhibit at the brand’s Fondazione Prada contemporary art exhibition house. Fashion is Prada’s reality.
She employed two artists — James Jean from Los Angeles and Ollie Schrauwen of Belgium — to create graphic stories on a human and not superhero scale that coated the walls of the showroom and grew to become the prints that outlined Sunday’s menswear assortment in Milan.
Scenes included a robotic monkey and an oversized spider descending to select up homes. Prada stated she was attracted to the comics because they end up information in bit-measurement items — a lot the identical way social media does at this time.
Nylon jumpsuits defined the Prada silhouette, belted at the waist and gathered at the ankles and cuffs with plastic Prada labels. Shirt collars were turned up. There was a shorts model worn with Prada men’s knee socks and pointy leather-based shoes.
The silhouette was repeated in casualwear, with sweaters tucked into athletic-type trousers. Meshed sweaters of horizontal stripes tucked into houndstooth sample trousers turned up into a thick cuff. Sandals with socks anchored those looks.
Graphic prints appeared in each pastel colors and black and white on shirts, jacket panels and bags. Prada mentioned she added overcoats to unify the appears.
“Everything was a little bit naive, too easy,” she mentioned. ‘‘We thought these massive heavy coats can be the suitable counterpart. That’s just fashion.”
Textures at Ferragamo
Guillaume Meilland’s second collection for Ferragamo is inspired by the Mediterranean coastline shared by his native France and adopted Italy.
The seems to be are defined by texture: cable-knit fishermen’s sweaters, velvety shorts, corduroy trousers and suede laser minimize tops, all hearty fare for wind-swept seaside strolls. The designer also added touches of whimsy like sea horse prints and coral key chains.
“Yes I like the concept of getting, for me, something very Italian, one thing very a lot linked to the idea of the holidays and the seaside,” Meilland mentioned backstage. “Textures, colors, we are trying mix gentle velvet, English fabrics and heavy linens … The fluid and one thing more tough.”
The looks mixed for an effortless silhouette that Meilland said was impressed by the 1960 French film “Purple Noon,” based mostly on the Patricia Highsmith’s “Ripley” novels.
Ferragamo’s footwear included penny loafers or slip on moccasins with rubber soles adorned with the trademark buckle for town or rope accents for the seaside.
Italian rapper Ghali honed in ferragamo sandals bali on a pair of velvety shorts with a sea horse print on a golden background from the entrance row of Ferragamo’s present for subsequent spring and summer season.
“I actually like the collection. I really like lots of the textures that I saw,” said Ghali, a Milan native whose new album, titled “Album,” is being promoted with an advert on the Duomo cathedral.
Brutalism at Bikkembergs
Lee Wood laid the seams naked at Dirk Bikkembergs during his second season as its inventive director.
The clear assortment revealed the development details that create rhythms with their repetition, from the patchwork trousers to the intarsia knitwear.
Wooden said he was impressed by the brutalism architectural movement of the late 1960s and early 1970s that stood in opposition to adornment.
“I needed it to be brutal. I wished it to be sincere. I wished it to be like men ought to be,” Lee mentioned backstage. ‘‘I don’t need to see men all pretty and good. I believe a man must be rugged.”
The strains have been simple, with neat T-shirts with scooped necks paired with city patchwork trousers minimize from pure fabrics. The cuffs were turned as much as reveal the tough seam. Heavy boots and utilitarian sandals anchored the appears.
Suit jackets have been worn with shorts that were almost bloomers in proportion, a fob to summer, whereas some trousers were festooned with maxi-pockets. Tops, by contrast, were gentle, like one that was a patchwork of gold, mild blue and white.
While the materials had been principally natural fibers and the coloration palette based on hues of blue, white and slate grey, the collection closed with flashes of inexperienced and Japanese technical fabric.
Yolo from Korea
Korean designer Munsoo Kwon made his Milan debut in the Armani theater with a set that contained some measure of autobiography.
The triptych assortment consists of items primarily based on European tailoring, Korean army wear and a sequence of character looks. The thread that connects them all: The YOLO phenomenon, previously, before the invention of abbreviation-loving social media, often called ‘‘You Solely Stay Once.”
The 37-12 months-outdated Kwon expresses his whimsy with out-of-proportion cuts: Boyish striped sweaters that are a part of his character collection are gigantic with wide, trailing arms, dwarfing the wearer.
The navy seems to be are elongated and comfortable, not your standard regimented rendering. And the tailor-made outfits are clean and elegant, that includes pinstripe pants with long belts worn with a pajama-impressed high and a trench coat with bell sleeves.
School’s out for Sunnei
The hallway of an inventive high school was the runway for the Sunnei model by designers Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo. The occasion: The final day of school.
“For us, this is an expression of complete freedom,” Rizzo stated of the gathering.
The looks are extra artsty pupil than beach, even when the striped button-down tops and shorts recalled seashore umbrellas. Fits featured boxy jackets and athletic drawstring pants, which could be worn with a plasticized denim overcoat. Footwear included sling-again sneakers.
Oversized sweaters came with matching water bottle holders and T-shirts played on social media with a photograph of Myspace founder Tom Anderson with the slogan “Forever Tom,” relationship even the young designers of the three-year-previous model.
“We show our lives, our every day existence. We don’t seek advice from the past,” Rizzo mentioned.
Dean and Dan Caten, the Canadian twins behind the DSquared2 label, have made their mark on Milan — most not too long ago with a neon maple leaf on the former distillery the place they showed subsequent year’s warm weather seems for men and women.
The designers put a jangle in the models’ walk with buckled leather straps in neat rows up the sleeves of sweaters, down the legs of trousers and leggings, and throughout boots.
Hawaiian floral prints had been the accent of the season, with floral shirts paired busily with leopard leggings or worn over the trademark Canadian plaid. Painted florals accented leather-based pants and skirts, and appeared as panel overlays on denim jackets.
Womenswear featured dramatically layered long ruffle tulle skirts that had been typically paired with easy T-shirts. Men also can bask in some mild ruffles down the entrance of their tank tops.